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 This check-list will assist you to determine
a car's condition and whether it represents value for money.
Always insist on an inspection by your states motorists association. If a trader
or private seller doesn't agree to this, don't buy the car.
Try to arrange the inspection before you sign the Purchase Agreement and pay
your deposit. If this isn't possible, make sure you write into the Agreement
that "The sale is conditional on the purchaser's satisfaction with an independent
mechanical inspection report". Private sellers will usually agree to an inspection
if you pay a small deposit. Make sure this arrangement is in writing and that
you get a receipt for the deposit. Check out the car to the best of your ability
before you arrange for the inspection. This will save the cost of a mechanical
check if the car isn't worth it.
Bodywork
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Does the car's paintwork show ripples or unevenness
when you view it against the light? If it does, it may
mean the car has been in an accident.
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Don't buy a car at night or when it's raining - this
will hide any defects.
-
Holes drilled in the car's roof or instrument panel
mean that it could have been a taxi or police car and
subject to heavy wear and tear.
-
Check the doors, door sills, body and boot for signs
of rust. Be sure to lift the floor and body mats as corrosion
here can be expensive or impossible to repair.
-
Wind windows up and down, check whether doors sag or
drop on opening.
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Check that the locks work.
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Make sure you don't have to slam the doors to close
them. Doors that don't close properly can mean the car
has been in an accident.
Electrics
Check the following to make sure they
work properly:
- parking lights
- dashboard light
- indicators
- number plate lights
- tail lights
- brake lights
- hazard lights
- headlights on low & high
beam
- horn
- windscreen wipers
Interior
- Do the seats spring satisfactorily?
- Are the seat belts in good condition and do the retractors
work smoothly?
- Do all the accessories work?
Tyres
- Are the tyres worn unevenly? This could mean unbalanced
wheels, uneven brake action or incorrect wheel alignment.
- Is the spare tyre in good condition?
- Does the car have a wheel jack and associated tools?
Steering
- If the car doesn't have power steering, check its freeplay.
- When you drive the car, can you hear knocking sounds?
This could be a sign of bad wear in the wheel bearings,
king pins or other suspension parts.
Gearbox and Clutch
- Make sure the gears engage smoothly.
- Listen for whining noises when you change into lower
gear. This could mean the gearbox is worn.
- If you notice that the gears seem to slip, this is
a sign of bad wear.
- Check that the clutch takes up gradually and smoothly.
Engine
- Check the oil on the dipstick before starting the car.
If it's thick or contains water, there may be engine
problems.
- After starting the engine, accelerate moderately a
few times. Blue exhaust smoke indicates engine wear.
- Oily scum in the radiator may indicate a faulty cylinder
head gasket.
- Take note if there are pools of oil or water under
the car after it's been run. These are costly to repair.
Suspension
- Loud thumps over bumps or on a rough road usually mean
worn suspension.
- Rock the car up and down. If it continues to rock after
you let go, there may be problems with the shock absorbers.
Compliance Plate
- Check the compliance plate. You'll find it attached
to the bulkhead between the engine and the passenger
compartment on all cars manufactured for sale since 1970.
If the plate has been tampered with, don't buy the car.
Test Drive
- Take the car for a 20 minute or 10 kilometre test drive.
Make sure it's insured before you drive it.
- Do an emergency stop to check the brakes.
- Coloured smoke from the exhaust can be a warning of
future problems.
Continue to page 3 - Insuring the vehicle >
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